The salto de la bruja waterfalls
The San Martín Region
After two months in Lima, The call of nature brought me to the San Martín region, in the heart of the Peruvian jungle, for my photography project. This region offered me a wide variety of landscapes, shaped by striking terrain, and an incredibly diversity of endemic flora and fauna but threatened by deforestation. It was this combination, along with the local atmosphere, the warm hospitality, and generosity of the Peruvian people, that made me want to stay longer. The result: four months in Tarapoto that flew by in the blink of an eye. I must also admit that I found a charming guesthouse on Nuevo Paraíso Street, a name that truly fits, it’s hard to leave a place where you feel so at home. Thank you to Soffi and Ali family (Shoffi’s House Backpackers Tarapoto).
Tarapoto is also a great stopover for those planning to travel to Iquitos, located on the edge of the Amazon, without taking a direct flight from the capital.
I arrived during the rainy season, which oddly reminded me of the Breton climate… though with an average temperature of 30°C. Today, I’m taking you on the road from Tarapoto to Yurimaguas, in search of the Salto de la Bruja waterfalls.
It’s hard to decide which waterfall to visit in this region : there are falls to the north, south, east, and west of Tarapoto, making it easy to feel overwhelmed. Less visited than the Ahuashiyacu waterfall (which is closer to the city), Salto de la Bruja gave me the opportunity to photograph the area without swimmer in sight.
It also stood out to me for another reason: the site includes multiple waterfalls, all accessible through a pleasant hike. Only one short section toward the end requires a bit of climbing with a rope to reach a turquoise-colored pool, but it’s manageable for just about anyone. Being able to swim in those crystal-clear, dreamlike waters is an unforgettable moment that I highly recommend if you ever have the chance to explore this region.
A few practical tips:
- Plan to spend the whole day there (it’s about a 1-hour mototaxi ride from Tarapoto).
- Entrance fee: 10 soles per person.
- From Tarapoto, the easiest option is to hire a mototaxi for the day—around 100 soles.
- Bring a light jacket if you’ve already gotten used to Tarapoto’s warm weather.
- You can bring sandwiches to eat on site or stop along the way at small roadside restaurants called “menu” (they serve traditional dishes with chicken, fish, and especially the well-known sopa de gallina).
The Road from Tarapoto to Yurimaguas & the Meal
The entrance to the site is located about an hour from Tarapoto, between the Amazon basin (locally known as Selva Baja or lowland forest) and the first foothills of the Andes, in what’s called here the Selva Alta, literally the “high jungle” or “cloud forest.” The name couldn’t be more fitting. Having taken this road several times, I can tell you: barely20 minutes after leaving Tarapoto, the road begins to gently climb… and the jungle transforms.
Here, the forest rises, the leaves glisten with moisture, and the mountain peaks sometimes disappear into the clouds. I often found myself suddenly enveloped in thick mists, especially near the El Mono y la Gata viewpoint, tucked into the hills.
This area is part of the Cordillera Escalera Regional Conservation Zone, a protected region of lush, tropical nature with breathtaking panoramas. As soon as you leave the city, you can already enjoy two beautiful waterfalls visible from the Mirador Alto Ahuashiyacu.
Some of the peaks in this zone rise to around1,400 meters above sea level, but don’t worry: the Salto de la Bruja waterfallsare located between 500 and 700 meters, in a jungle that isrefreshing, accessible, andperfect for a day trip.
Arrival and the Visit
Getting there shortly after opening time is ideal, as it’s when the place is the quietest. You’ll be welcomed by a tree with spectacularroots, worthy of the Amazon rainforest. The air is fresh and pure, but what always strikes me in this kind of environment are the scents of the vegetation, the buzz of insects (especially cicadas), the songsof birds, the croaks of a few frogs, and the rumble of the waterfall as you get closer.
The connection with nature is at its strongest for those who take the time to observe it. You’ll spot antsof all shapes and sizes, and even spiders tucked into small crevices along the trail. With a bit of luck, you might even catch a glimpse of a tarantula’s legs. The walk continues through dense vegetation, well preserved thanks to the area’s protected status.
As the path continues, the first waterfall comes into view, just slightly below the trail. After walking down a set of stairs, the magic truly begins, with the chance to swim in stunning turquoise-green waters.
You’ll need to continue climbing to reach the second waterfall, which is smaller, but I took that opportunity to stop and photograph the equally mysterious wildlife: a striking caterpillar, the mythical leaf-cutterants, and even the famous poison dart frogs (dendrobates), small but iconic creatures of South America.
Further along, I came across a tree with remarkable roots, locally called Cashapona. It’s known for its “walking” roots, tall, straight extensions that give it the reputation of being able to move through the forest. It’s the kind of thing that makes you wonder about the magic of the place…
The further I went, the higher the cliffs rose around me, draped with giant, hanging ferns, like a scene straight out of a fantasy film.
After a steady climb through the lush greenery, the trail suddenly opens up, and I finally arrived at the largest waterfall. Right in front of me, the clear water reveals a sandy area, like a beach sitting at the foot of a 25 meter high cascade, plunging from a rocky cliff.
At this point, you need to use ropes installed along the rock face to reach the highest part of the circuit. Once at the top, you discover a turquoise pool, refreshingly cool, but it’s almost impossible to resist the swim.
This is also the perfect time to reflect on the origin of the name “Salto de la Bruja”, or “The Witch’s Leap.” According to local legend, it dates back to a curandera (traditional healer) from the town of Lamas. She would come to the waterfall to bathe and wash her clothes. As she did so, she would joyfully leap from rock to rock, splashing water high into the air and creating loud echoes.
Hunters and travelers say they could hear the splashes all the way from the valley, and that’s how the place came to be known as “El Salto de la Bruja.”
If you’ve also heard a story about this waterfall or maybe even the witch’s echoing splash, feel free to leave a comment on this article!
And don’t hesitate to reach out to me directly if you’d like more information about this article or this waterfall. You can also check out my photo gallery on the “Selva” page of the site.
Thanks to Diego and Jean Christophe for the species identification