Photographing birds in flight simple settings for sharp images

In this article, you will learn how I photographed birds in flight and the settings that completely changed my results especially with hummingbirds.

I have always been fascinated by the flight of birds. I tried several times to photograph them, but I had never really taken the time to study the subject. A classic beginner mistake in wildlife photography going into the field without preparation. my images were always blurry.

It was during a trip to peru, in the amazon rainforest, to photograph hummingbirds that I stopped giving myself a choice. “I have to photograph hummingbirds in flight.” if there is one thing that defines them, it is their speed.

I was accompanied by my guide Gustavo Pastor C., on the hummingbird route. four days filled with photography and conversations because he knows the region inside out. I told him about my small challenge of photographing a hummingbird in flight and the difficulties that come with it, and he told me, “if you want to do it, you will make it happen” that is what I love about peruvians, they have always pushed me to aim higher.

He also had extensive knowledge about hummingbirds. he shared many stories with me and, always alert, often pointed out where to look to spot uncommon species like these two, which only appeared briefly:

But most importantly, he understood some of their interactions. Some are more territorial, others are calmer and stay longer on the same branch. Observations far more valuable than a simple camera setting.

The real problem is not fast birds but an unprepared photographer

I decided to analyze my “failed” photos, something I highly recommend doing regularly if you want to improve, to better understand which technical aspects I needed to work on before the trip. the issue really did come from my settings but not only from that.

Once on location, I spent the first hour observing and taking a few test shots of hummingbirds to check the light and my position. but above all, I tried to identify patterns and habits whether some hummingbirds passed through the same area, landed on a specific branch, or kept returning to it.

Activity was intense on that first day. Five or six species were present and, honestly, I spent long moments simply watching them dart through the air in every direction without even trying to take photos. The scene was mesmerizing especially when a beam of sunlight revealed the iridescent colors of their feathers.

After a few tests and once I had found my position, I finally started shooting and the results were still disappointing. My photos were still blurry. Shutter speed, aperture, and iso were correctly set, yet something was missing. Eventually, I found the problem. I rarely change my autofocus settings but this time, autofocus was the key.

The settings that change everything

If some camera settings still feel confusing to you, do not worry. The most important thing here is not to memorize every parameter, but to understand how they behave in the field.

If the exposure triangle means nothing to you yet, feel free to tell me in the comments and I will gladly make a dedicated article about it.

However, the settings below will already allow you to photograph birds in flight without professional gear.

Shutter speed

Fast subject = fast shutter speed.

To freeze movement, you need to increase your shutter speed according to the speed of your subject. personally, I almost never went below 1/2000s, which means making compromises with the two other settings below depending on the available light in the field.

Aperture

I would generally recommend opening your lens as wide as possible. this helps compensate for the high shutter speed, although it also depends on your environment and the available light. in most situations, I stayed at the maximum aperture of my lens, f5.6.

ISO

You will need to increase your iso, otherwise your images will be too dark. with such a high shutter speed, there is no real alternative. I cannot give you a magical number because every situation is different.

Some of my photos are noisy. I recommend running your own tests to determine how much noise is acceptable to you. If you are interested, I could also make an article explaining how to test the noise performance of your camera at different iso values.

To finish on this point, many solutions now exist to reduce noise in our images.

Autofocus

For me, this is the most important part. I do not own a latest generation mirrorless camera. I use a mid range nikon camera, but it still reacts very quickly when focusing. It does not include subject recognition, so the autofocus settings themselves were the real key to getting sharp images.

There are two important settings to understand:

• Autofocus mode:
  • Single autofocus, where focus is locked once
  • Continuous autofocus, where the camera keeps focusing continuously. this mode is essential for birds in flight
• Focus area:
  • You probably already know narrow focus areas and wide focus areas
  • Here, the surrounding focus points around the central point help tell the camera that the subject may move sideways

With continuous autofocus and a focus area using surrounding focus points, your camera will be able to track moving subjects much more efficiently.

You can also use subject tracking. for example, if the bird is perched on a branch, you place the focus point on it and the camera will continue tracking it once it takes off.

Some field tips

• Avoid getting too close to nests, as you may disturb the animals and their environment.
• Scout the location beforehand. Understand where the light comes from and position yourself according to the result you want to achieve.
• If possible, try to keep a distant background. A wide aperture will blur it more easily and help avoid distracting elements in your composition such as too many branches.

The real secret is being ready before it happens

Imagine seeing a hummingbird for the very first time. It is the only one within hundreds of kilometers and it will only appear once… You better be ready, right?

Having a clear idea before going into the field changes everything, and this applies far beyond birds in flight photography. You do not go out just to “take photos.” You go out to create one image, the image:

• You already know your settings
• You already understand your subject or at least have an idea of its behavior

You will be ready when the scene finally unfolds, while others are still searching through their settings.

It can also be tempting to run everywhere trying to follow birds, but you quickly realize they will always be faster than you. There is no point rushing or making sudden movements.

Wildlife photography is a game of patience that rewards preparation and careful field observation. When your subject finally appears exactly where you imagined it and the scene you had in mind suddenly unfolds in front of you, your preparation will maximize your chances of capturing the image successfully.

And above all, you will also have respected your subject. By researching beforehand, you greatly reduce the risk of surprising, stressing, or frightening the animal. As I mentioned earlier, some birds may even stay close to you or repeatedly return if they do not see you as a threat. Shorebirds following the rising tide are a perfect example. Stay still near the waterline and eventually they may come surprisingly close to you.

The next time you see a bird, do not take your camera out immediately. Observe it first, then try these settings and tell me what changed in your way of photographing wildlife.

FAQ

• What shutter speed should you use for birds in flight?
  • I recommend starting around 1/2000s and adjusting depending on your subject.
• Which autofocus mode should you use?
  • What truly changed everything for me with hummingbirds was using autofocus with surrounding focus points.
• Can you photograph hummingbirds without professional gear?
  • Absolutely. As mentioned earlier, I use a mid range camera. However, a telephoto lens of at least 300mm is strongly recommended for wildlife photography.